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 Presented by Maintenance Warehouse

Chemicals and Cleaning 201 Stain Removal from Carpets Food & Drink Stains Shower Curtains
Soil Coffee Makers Furniture Telephones
Surface Doors Lights Televisions
A Cleaner's Components Drywall Repairs Mattresses Toilets
How Cleaners Work Drapes Mirrors Toilet Paper
Factors Affecting Cleaners Electric Lighting Odors Towels
Helpful Hints Electric Paint Repairs Towel Racks
Air Conditioners Fabric Stains Pavement Tubs
Bird Control Fans Pests Vacuum
Carpet Fixtures Pools Vanities
Carpet Care Floors Sheets Vinyl/Painted Walls


Chemicals and Cleaning "201"

The basic selection of what cleaner to use is primarily a determination based upon the soil to be removed and the surface from which the soil must be removed. The three basic types of cleaners; acids, alkalis and solvents, are designed to work primarily on certain soils and upon certain surfaces.


Choosing the right cleaner begins by analyzing the soil and matching it to the cleaner best designed to remove it. Some of the common forms of soil best removed by one of the basic cleaners are as follows:




Mineral deposits such as: iron stains, lime build up, acid stains, rust, scale, water spots.

Most common forms of soil including: dirt, soot, fats, cooking oils, food stains, baked-on grease, scuff marks, ink and crayon marks.

Heavy grease and oil including machine grease, engine oils, uric sludge, paint, varnish, finger prints.

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Choosing the right cleaner also demands an analysis of the surface to be cleaned. The three basic cleaners are designed for use on different surfaces areas. The surfaces commonly cleaned by the basic cleaners are as follows:




Vitreous china, metal, glass, cement, quarry, tile, fiberglass, plexiglass.

Vinyl, asbestos tile, metal, porcelain, china, linoleum, glass, carpets, fabrics, wood, Formica, vinyl, cement.

Engines, machine parts, machinery, quarry tile, cement.

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Function of a Cleaner’s Components

In order to understand cleaning chemistry better, it is necessary to know the function or properties of the components of a cleaner. These are defined as follows:

  • Sequestration or Chelation – The removal or inactivation of water hardness particles by the formation of a soluble complex.
  • Wetting – The action of water contracting all surfaces of soil or equipment enhanced through the use of a surfactant.
  • Penetration – The action of a liquid entering into porous materials or into crevices, joints or seams enhanced by the use of a surfactant.
  • Emulsification – The Mechanical action of breaking fats and oils into very small particles, which are uniformly mixed with the water used.
  • Deflocculation or Dispersion – The action of breaking up aggregates or flocs into individual particles.
  • Suspension – The action which holds up insoluble particles in a solution.
  • Rinsing – The condition of a solution or suspension which enables it to be flushed from a surface easily and completely.
  • Saponification – The action of changing insoluble animal fats and oils into a soluble soap.

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How Cleaners Work

  • By conditioning the water so there is no additional soil added to surfaces and so that the effectiveness of the cleaner is not reduced by hardness in the water.

  • By penetrating the soil or wetting it with the water.

  • By dissolving as much of the soil as is possible by the use of an acid, alkali or solvent.

  • By dispersion or emulsification of the remaining soil.

  • By holding the soil in suspension until it is rinsed away.

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Factors Affecting Cleaners

The performance of any selected cleaner may be altered significantly by any one or a combination of the following factors:

  1. Water Temperature
    Although most detergents are designed to work in hot or cold water, the performance of a cleaner can be enhanced by employing hot water. Extremely hot water should not be used on highly finished floors or on carpeting.

  3. Time
    The length of time a cleaning solution is allowed to remain on the surface to be cleaned can effect the performance of that cleaner. Typically the longer the contact time of a solution the better that solution performs. Never, however, allow a dirty cleaning solution to dry on a surface before it can be rinsed.

  5. Chemical Strength
    The optimum use dilution varies with different detergents. Also, the effect of a reduction in dilution is different with each detergent. It is important that the property dilution be maintained, and that you understand how this dilution can be changed for specific applications.

  7. Mechanical Action
    The type of agitation used may have a direct impact on the cleaner’s ability to perform and the use-dilution employed. Machine scrubbing, pressure rinsing and abrasive pads can affect the cleaner’s ability to break up soils and reduce the amount of cleaner needed or the time to complete the job.

  9. Procedures
    The skill level of the user can also affect the choice of cleaner to be used. A properly trained staff may be able to use one cleaner in a variety of applications or more aggressive cleaners for special cleaning tasks.

  11. Safety
    You should also consider the safety of employees, equipment and surfaces to be cleaned in the choice of the cleaner to be used. For example strong acid or alkaline solution may require safety precautions and equipment as well as care when used on certain surfaces. Always read the product label and refer to the Material Safety Data Sheet before using a new product.

  13. Problem Analysis
    When confronted with an unfamiliar cleaning situation, determine the following:

    1. The most predominate soil.

    2. The most difficult soil to remove.

    3. The composition of the surface to be cleaned.

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The following helpful hints have been gathered from throughout the franchise community, experience and other resources. OSHA and labeling instruction should be followed when using any chemicals or solvents.


  • To prevent stains from drainage put PAN-CLER (152001) into drain pans. It eliminates odors and controls the spread of algae, fungi and slime-forming bacteria.
  • To create fresh smell in guestrooms put a deodorant filter (125521, 125522, 125523, 125527) inside unit and maintain a maintenance preventive program.

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  • Three choices: 12" bird spikes (112465), bird repel gel (122460) or THE OWL (111880). The owl is great to scare rodents and snakes.

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Carpets are exposed to four types of soil over their life span:

  • Dry soils: Dry dirt, sand, dust, grit, ashes, and other loose soils. These do not adhere to carpet fibers by themselves, but can become difficult to remove when mixed with greasy materials which bind them to fibers.

  • Water-soluble Soils: water-based detergent products most effectively remove Mud, non-greasy foodstuffs, and spills.

  • Oily and greasy materials: Grease, tar, asphalt, food grease and airborne oily materials are most effectively removed by a combination of detergent and solvent products.

  • Stains and discoloration: Rust, water spots, food dyes, and other difficult problems often must be removed or eliminated by specialized carpet products or procedures. Water soluble and oily soils "bind" abrasive dry soils to the carpet fibers and cause rapid deterioration or carpet appearance.

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  • To prevent a spill from becoming a stain, blot up as much of the moisture as possible. DO NOT RUB! Rubbing will spread the stain. Begin at the outer edge of the spill and blot towards the center. Do not apply a stain remover until you have done a thorough job of blotting up the spill.
  • For fresh stains, plain club soda is an excellent spot remover. Pour a little on the area, let set for a few seconds, then blot it up.
  • For older stains, combine one tablespoon of laundry detergent, 3 tablespoons of vinegar, and one quart of warm water. Work into stain and blot as dry as possible.
  • After using one of the above methods to remove the stain, cover the spot with a clean towel, and place a heavy book on it. Replace the towel when it gets damp.
  • Carpet that has been flattened with heavy furniture can be raised with a steam iron. Simply build up a good steam and hold it over, not on, the carpet and brush briskly.
  • To remove gum, cover it with ice cubes until it becomes brittle and breaks off. Use spot remover to vanquish traces.
  • Use white wine to remove a red wine stain on carpet.
  • Nail polish remover will remove tar and grease from white shoes, carpets, cloth etc., however, the basic ingredient for most commercial spot removers is two parts water to one part rubbing alcohol, so it’s cheaper to mix your own.
  • If, after removing a carpet stain, it appears to come back, it may be because the carpet pad beneath the carpet was stained as well. It may be worth the effort to peel back the carpet and replace the stained area of padding to prevent the return of the stain, depending on where in the room the stain is.
  • Salt will absorb oil and odors in carpet.
  • Rubbing alcohol or toothpaste is good at removing tar.
  • Unwanted odors to carpet: Odors also reside in carpet. Smoke, food, mildew, and others are difficult to remove and can make a physically clean carpet a major maintenance problem. A maintenance technique designed to eliminate odors should be a regular part of carpet maintenance procedures. Carpet shampoos containing odor counteractants and disinfectants will assist in controlling unwanted odors. A systematic carpet program is the most cost-effective way to properly maintain the appearance and extend the service life of carpet.

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  • Blood - if fresh, dampen cloth in clean cold water and press firmly on stain. If stain persists, a commercial blood remover may be necessary.

  • Burns - trim away charred fibers. Sponge with diluted solution of carpet cleaner and rinse. For severely burned spots or areas you may want to consult a carpet repair service.

  • Candy - apply ice to area. This will make area brittle to crumble off. If ice is not available spot area with a general-purpose grease spotter and rinse. Use this procedure for chewing gum also.

  • Nail polish - apply acetone or nail polish remover and blot. Do not use on carpets containing rayon, nylon or olefins.

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  • CLR (111840) is an excellent product for removing coffee and lime from carafes
  • For cleaning glass coffeepots, allow them to cool, fill with a mix of ice cubes and salt, allow to stand for an hour then wash. Spots on the glass should be eliminated.
  • A mix of vinegar and water will also do the trick.
  • Use lemon juice to cut stains.

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  • By installing a piece of rubber or a magnet on the door jam, chips in door paint from chain locks will be virtually eliminated.
  • Coating newly painted doors with either Penetrol or car wax with sunscreen will prevent the doors from fading and easily staining/scratching.
  • To clean doors use an all-purpose cleanser or shampoo and water for hair spray buildup.
  • If scuffed - paint.
  • To protect walls from doorknob damage, use a wall protector (807833, 807838).

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  • Small drywall repairs can be made by cutting a 12" x 12" square and using 1/2 " 12x12 drywall repair boards and clips. (920069 and 920071). Eliminates the need to go to 16" centers.

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  • By closing the drapes on the sunny side of the building, fading of both the carpet and the drape edges will be mostly eliminated and the rooms will be easier to cool in the summer time.
  • Water stains can be removed from sheers by sitting the stained portion in a bucket (plastic trashcan) filled with warm water and 1/4 cup laundry detergent. Do not take the sheers down as they could get wrinkled or damaged.
  • Use liquid paper on small pinholes in blackout drapes.

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  • 12% of a property's electric bill is estimated to be in lighting. Recommend motion sensors to reduce operating expense (336451).
  • For blown out light bulbs in exit signs, use LED replacements to save time and money (325899).

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  • Wire clutter: Use Velcro straps to organize wires (128110)
  • For unsightly and painted outlets use MASQUE decorator plates (328071). They are easy to install, and cover unsightly outlets.

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  • Ball-point pen – Spray or dab with dry-cleaning solvent. Then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent and all-fabric bleach. On suede, rub marks with fine sandpaper.
  • Candle wax – Freeze the wax by applying ice cubes or by putting the item in the freezer; then break off the frozen pieces. Treat the residual stain with dry-cleaning solvent, then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with all-fabric bleach.
  • Crayon – Spray or dab with dry-cleaning solvent. Then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent and all-fabric bleach.
  • Crude oil or tar – Treat with a petroleum-base solvent pretreatment spray. Then wash with heavy-duty detergent and hot water.
  • Dyes – Cleaning marks caused by dyes are difficult to remove. Rinse with cold water and treat with liquid detergent. If the stain persists, soak in a diluted solution of powdered all-fabric bleach. Then wash in detergent and bleach as safe for fabric.
  • Engine oil – Treat with a petroleum-base solvent pretreatment spray. Then wash in heavy-duty detergent and hot water.
  • Felt-tip Pen – Pretreat with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then rinse well. If stain persists, soak in a diluted solution of all-fabric bleach. Then wash in detergent and bleach as safe for fabric.
  • Furniture polish – Treat with dry-cleaning solvent, then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash as usual.
  • Grass stains – Pretreat with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then rinse well. If stain persists, soak in a diluted solution of powdered all- fabric bleach. Wash with detergent and bleach as safe for fabric.
  • Grease – Treat with a petroleum-base solvent pretreatment spray. Then wash with heavy-duty detergent in hot water.
  • Ink (permanent) – Pre-treat with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then rinse well. If stain persists, soak in a diluted solution of powdered all- fabric bleach. Wash in detergent and bleach as safe for fabric.
  • Ink (washable) – Wash stain with detergent; do not use bleach.
  • Iodine – Treat with sodium thiosulfate (available in photo supply stores as "acid fixer"). If solution contains other chemicals in addition to sodium thiosulfate, do not use. Some commercial stain re- movers also remove iodine.
  • Mildew – Bleach and water solution. Use MEGACIDE for excellent results (114000)
  • Mud – Soak in cold water with detergent or enzyme presoak. Wash with detergent in warm water.
  • Paint (latex) – For best results, treat while stain is still wet. Soak in cold water. Then wash in cool water with heavy-duty detergent. Dried paint is very difficult to remove. Treat as for permanent ink. GOOF OFF is best (101112).
  • Paint (oil-base) – Treat while stain is wet for best results. Spot- treat stain with thinner recommended for paint. Treat until stain is softened. Wash in heavy-duty detergent. Turpentine and rubbing alcohol are common paint thinners.
  • Rust – Do not use chlorine bleach; it sets the stain. Treat with a commercial rust remover CLR (111840).
  • Scorch marks – If a fabric is thick and fuzzy, brush to remove charring. Pre-treat with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent. Wash with detergent. If stain persists, re-wash with detergent and all-fabric bleach.
  • Shoe polish – Spray or dab with dry-cleaning solvent, then rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent.

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  • Must be cleaned as part of scheduled maintenance. Sometimes, a noisy exhaust fan can be remedied by placing a rubber faucet washer between the motor mounting bracket and the point where it attaches to the vent pipe.

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  • To remove buildup from fixtures, use a toothbrush then polish with a product called "Flitz", available at auto parts stores, which is used for automobile chrome.
  • To protect chrome and eliminate water spots, polishing fixtures with boat or car wax is very effective.
  • To remove tarnish, soaking fixtures in catsup (tomato acid) or rubbing with aluminum foil is sometimes the best way.
  • For fixtures, towel racks, or tissue holders with permanent tarnish, painting with chrome paint is an excellent alternative. Chrome paint is available in many colors at most hardware stores, and has a chip resistant surface.
  • Keep chrome shiny by spraying a solution of vinegar and water in equal parts on them. Lime and water spots will wipe off after a few minutes.
  • Clean showerheads that are clogged with lime deposits by placing them in a pot of boiling water with a cup of vinegar.
  • Use rubbing alcohol with toothbrush on chrome fixtures to remove soap scum. Also works on those brown stains around vanity fixtures.
  • Use silicone wax on chrome fixtures, exterior doors, and mirrors.
  • Use rubbing alcohol on mirrors and earpieces and to brighten chrome.

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  • Hair can easily be removed without a lot of stress on the housekeepers’ back by using a product called a "sticky critter." The "Critter" works by utilizing a sticky roll on a long stick, which rolls over the floor much like a lint brush.
  • Another good way to remove hair from the floors is to use a piece of a nylon fiber mattress pad, rubbing all over the floor or a tack cloth such as those used to remove dust prior to painting (available at hardware and variety stores).
  • Rubber heel marks on floors can be wiped with a floor oil then remove oil residue to prevent slipping. A very easy approach is to rub your shoe over the mark.

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  • Alcoholic beverages – Do not use soap. Wash with detergent.
  • Beer – Do not use soap. Wash in detergent in water as hot as is safe for fabric.
  • Butter – Pretreat stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Then wash fabric in water as hot as is safe for the fabric.
  • Chewing gum – Put the article in the freezer, or dab the gum with ice cubes to freeze it, and then break it off. Spray stain with pretreatment product. Rub with liquid detergent Rinse with hot water. Repeat if necessary. Wash with detergent.
  • Chocolate – Scrape it off, rinse stain with cold water and rub with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent and all-fabric bleach. If fabric is colorfast, wash tough stains with chlorine bleach.
  • Coffee – Do not use soap. Wash with detergent.
  • Cooking fats & oils – Wash in heavy-duty detergent and hot water. For difficult stains, use a pretreatment product on the stain before washing.
  • Cream – Rinse in cold water and wash with detergent.
  • Egg – Soak stain in cold water and then wash with detergent.
  • Fruit – Do not use soap. Wash with detergent.
  • Gravy – Rub stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent. Wash with detergent and all-fabric bleach. If fabric is colorfast, wash tough stains with chlorine bleach.
  • Ice cream – Soak in cold water. Wash with detergent.
  • Jam – Soak in cold water. Wash with detergent.
  • Ketchup – Rub stain with heavy-duty liquid detergent before washing. Wash, using detergent and all-fabric bleach. If fabric is color- fast, wash tough stains in chlorine bleach.
  • Mayonnaise or Salad Dressing – Scrape off excess with a dull knife. Wash in heavy-duty detergent, using water as hot as the fabric safely allows.
  • Meat juice – Soak in cold water. Wash with detergent.
  • Milk – Soak in cold water. Wash with heavy-duty detergent.
  • Mustard – Wash with detergent and bleach as safe for fabric.
  • Soft drinks – Wash with detergent; do not use soap.
  • Tea – Do not use soap. Wash with detergent.
  • Vegetable oil – Treat stain with petroleum-base solvent pretreatment spray. Wash with heavy-duty detergent in hot water.
  • Wine – Soak in cold water. Wash with detergent. Do not use soap.

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  • Veneer finish furniture should not be cleaned with furniture polish, it just makes it greasy. Instead, dust can be removed with a tack cloth, (the kind used to remove debris from surfaces before painting), or a clean damp cloth.

  • To keep drawers from sticking, rub edges and guides with a leftover piece of soap or beeswax.

  • Minor scratch damage can be repaired with a stain touch-up pen available from the hardware store.

  • For burn marks on light colored wood, try using Soft Scrub, leave on for no more than 5 minutes then wipe off.

  • To remove stains from chair cushions, try using Windex and a damp cloth.

  • Many drawer bottoms can be painted with a high-gloss paint or covered with wood-grain thick contact paper to cover drawer stains or graffiti.

  • Replace tarnished handles on credenza drawers with wooden handles.

  • Use Windex on graffiti in bottoms of drawers.

  • Use paintbrush to clean dust from lampshades, in between the numbers on telephones, speakers on TVs and controls on HVAC.

  • Use Goop to remove tar and oil on fabrics, i.e. carpet, chairs. Won't stain.

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  • To remove yellow stains from plastic light covers or shades, toss them in the pool, leave for an hour, remove, then wipe down, (or soak them in a tub with a bleach/water solution). Or stack the shades in a large trash can filled with a mix of bleach and water.
  • When a bulb has exploded and broken off in the socket, the remaining piece can be extracted by cutting a raw potato in half and "unscrewing" the bulb base with it. Be sure to turn off power to switch beforehand.
  • Lampshades can be dusted with a stiff paint brush.
  • Tarnished brass lamp bases can be painted with Krylon brass paint.

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  • Rotate mattresses every three months. In rooms with two beds, the mattresses should also be switched to extend the life of the mattress. Keep in mind that most guests sleep in the bed that has the best view of the television. If the placement of the TV is causing favoritism of one bed over another you may want to move the TV to extend the life of the mattress. SEALY Posturpedic beds do not require mattress rotation.
  • Box springs should also be rotated to prevent "crush zones" and extend life. SEALY Posturpedic beds do not require mattress rotation.

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  • Most mirrors, if they have been cleaned properly daily, do not need to be cleaned with any cleaner at all. Simply wet a clean towel, wipe the spots off the mirror, then dry it with a clean dry one.
  • For mirrors that are de-silvering, use Mirror-edge (900423).
  • When installing new mirrors, be sure to elevate over the splash plate and use a silicone caulk to prevent de-silvering down the road. Water causes de-silvering.
  • You can also use hair shampoo to remove hair spray from mirrors.
  • Use silicone wax on chrome fixtures, exterior doors, and mirrors.

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  • To remove stuffy odors, place two drops of wintergreen or spearmint oil on a cotton ball and place out of sight in each room. It will last for months.
  • By sprinkling baking soda on carpet and letting stand for at least half an hour, then vacuuming, many odors will be removed.
  • To keep rooms smelling fresh in the winter time, attach a fabric softener sheet in front of the fan in the HVAC unit.
  • A small cup of vinegar, placed in an out-of-sight place in the room will absorb odors for about two weeks.
  • To remove odors from drapes and bedspreads after a heavy smoker has occupied the room, put them in the dryer with a damp washcloth, soaked in fabric softener and cool air fluff together for 30 minutes.
  • Musty smelling HVAC units - check the drain hole under the barrier between the evaporator and the compressor or in the channel under the evaporator. To clean, cut off electrical supply, use a bent wire hanger or flush the channel with a water filled bulb baster.
  • To create fresh smell in guestrooms put a deodorant filter (125521, 125522, 125523, 125527) inside unit and maintain a maintenance preventive program.

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PAINT: TEXTURE AND POPCORN REPAIRS (finger divots, peeling etc.)

  • For deep finger divots, use spackle to fill the hole, and Homax spray paint (920005, 920010) to fix the popcorn repairs. For textured walls, use knockdown (920015) for repairs.

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  • To remove oil stains from pavement, kitty litter may be applied. Let sit for six hours then sweep up.
  • Trisodium phosphate (TSP) is also very effective for removing stains. Wear gloves, sprinkle the TSP on the stain, add water to activate, let sit for one hour. May need to scrub the area a little. Rinse; it will leave a white residue that will quickly disappear. (106735) Saturate passageway stains on concrete with carburetor cleaner. Let sit, then rinse off.
  • Spot removers for bricks and other masonry: Fresh paint - blot up then wipe with the solvent recommended for the paint. Rust - mix one pound of oxalic acid crystals in one gallon of water and brush on after three hours, scrub and rinse. Tar - scrape off, and scrub with scouring powder. Then apply a paste of talc and kerosene, let dry and scrub again. Do not perform this procedure near any flame source.

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  • Boric acid can keep a kitchen free of roaches. Sprinkle it in cracks, crevices, under sinks and other dark places. It will not repel the pests, so they keep returning to it over and over until they die. For best results, spray first with a pesticide then use the acid.
  • Salt, sprinkled in carpets or in open containers placed in out of the way corners, will drive fleas out of a room, (house, or your pet).
  • Check the integrity of your door sweeps and weather guards. This is frequently the entry for unwanted pests.

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  • To remove tough buildup from pool chairs, spray oven cleaner on a rag then wipe down the chairs.
  • Many chairs can be cleaned simply by throwing them in the pool.
  • To repaint the pool without draining it, Sherwin Williams developed a pool paint that dries chemically with the chlorine in pool water. It can be rolled onto the pool bottom without draining an ounce!

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  • By leaving the sheets slightly damp and letting them set folded on a shelf for a minimum of 4 hours, virtually all wrinkles will be eliminated.
  • To remove blood stains, soak in cold water, then peroxide, or try deodorant soap.
  • To remove rust stains, soak the spot in WD-40 then rinse.
  • To remove urine stains, wet, then sprinkle with cornstarch or baking soda.
  • For heavy stains, soak in cold water and gel dishwasher detergent.

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  • To prevent mildew, soak curtains in a solution of 1/2 cup salt to 4 gallons of water prior to hanging.
  • For stubborn stains on light colored shower curtains, wash in a salt-water solution followed by a lemon juice rubdown.
  • Trash cans can make an excellent cleaning bucket for shower curtains. Fill the bucket with warm water and cleaner when first entering the room then put the bottom 2 1/2 to 3 feet of shower curtain in the solution. Clean the rest of the room and by the time the bathroom is reached, the shower curtain and the trash can are clean, and the shower curtain should not need to be taken down. A good time saver.
  • Put clean rags in the washer with the shower curtains to help scrub off the soap scum.
  • To remove the plastic smell of new shower curtains, soak in salt water for 15 minutes prior to installing.
  • Use pinking shears to trim shower curtains to avoid splitting once cut.
  • Use the double shower curtain hanger (759343) to separate the liner from the curtain.

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  • The best way to clean and sterilize a telephone is by using rubbing alcohol on a clean cloth.
  • Removing and soaking ear and mouthpieces twice a year in a mix of bleach and water will eliminate any food or germ buildup on the inside.
  • Detanglers and retractors (303140 and 302946) best manage cord and headset tangles.

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  • Scratches and chips in gray-finish sets can be touched up with gray model paint, (available at toy and hobby stores).
  • Loose doors can be screwed down to prevent them from falling off/being lost. Or try Velcro.
  • TVs tend to attract dust particles due to the static electricity. Wipe down regularly with an antistatic laundry sheet.
  • Channel I.D. adhesive residue can be removed by spraying with WD-40. Let sit 10 minutes. Rub off with white (non-scratch) scrub pad.

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  • To provide continuous cleaning in hard water areas, a pool bleach tablet can be dropped in the toilet tank to remove stains each time the toilet is flushed. Saves money on cleaners too.
  • To remove lime rings, brush with a toothbrush and toothpaste.
  • Use a pumice stone to remove hard water stains in toilet.
  • Use a pool bleach tablet in toilet tank to rid hard water stains.

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  • Use short toilet paper rolls in the employee restroom rather than throwing them away.
  • Rolls should always be left wrapped or they will become soggy and unsanitary in the humid bathroom area.
  • Folding the paper to a "V" makes a good guest impression and makes the paper easier for the guest to use.

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  • If towels are not coming out 100% clean, it could be the detergent, the washer water level, the water temperature is too low, or the washer is being over-stuffed.
  • Towels often have a gray color when too much fabric softener is being used in a hard-water area. The aluminum in the softener reacts with the cotton and the water to make the gray color so try cutting down the softener. It is also possible that the water is highly chlorinated, which is okay until you add bleach. Use a non-chlorinated whitener instead.
  • Many make-up stains on towels and sheets can be removed with facial soap. Collect the soap bars after the guests have used them and soak the stained towels in a tub/sink with the bars and hot water. Very cost-effective!
  • Deodorant soap is good at getting out blood stains.
  • Ink marks can be removed from linen by using rubbing alcohol or hair spray then washing.
  • Use tennis balls or sneakers in the dryer with pillows to make them fluffier.

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  • If the rack pulls out of the wall, it should be screwed back into the same hole again to keep the wall from being damaged and falling apart. Soak a cotton ball in wood glue, push it in the hole where the screw fell out, let dry completely, then screw the rack back into the hole again. The cotton fibers will wrap around the screw and hold it firmly in place.
  • See above under fixtures regarding painting of towel racks.

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  • For heavily stained tubs, a mixture of peroxide and cream of tartar, in a paste can be used. Scrub vigorously with a small brush then rinse thoroughly. If the stain persists, spread the above mixture over stains and apply a drop or two of ammonia. Allow to set for two hours before scrubbing then rinse thoroughly. (Use on white tubs only).
  • Light tub stains can often be removed by rubbing with lemon juice.
  • For dark stains, especially rust, rub with a paste of borax and lemon juice.
  • To brighten up a tub or tile that has yellowed, rub with a solution of salt and turpentine.
  • New tub grout, after it has dried completely, can be sealed with Thompson’s Water Seal to eliminate mildew growth and buildup.
  • To remove existing mildew in the tub area use a baking soda/water solution or one part bleach to one part water solution. Spray the area, let soak, and then wipe down.
  • Reduce mildew growth in the tub area by centering the shower curtain on the rod leaving both ends open for air to circulate.
  • Severe stains on porcelain can be removed with a pumice stone. This will also remove rust and some hard water stains. Or try "Pumice Blue", a mix of pumice and detergent.
  • To eliminate soap film on shower walls, spray with a solution of vinegar and water then dry thoroughly.
  • To prevent the appearance of drip marks on bath tile and fiberglass enclosures, clean from the bottom up rather than the top down.
  • For burns in fiberglass, soaking the area in WD-40 then following with a very light sandpaper will remove the stain.
  • Use wax on tile in showers to seal off grout lines and eliminate water spots. (Do not use on tubs.)
  • For a better finish on caulking do not use your finger. A smooth finish will result from using a clean popsicle stick or the rounded end of a plastic spoon.
  • Nicked/chipped ceramic tile can be repaired with an appliance touch-up paint. It dries to a hard, glossy surface and comes in many colors.
  • Removal of non-skids and adhesives. Soak for 30 minutes in a laundry pre-wash. Use a single-edge razor blade flat against the tub for scraping. Remove any excess adhesive by spraying with aerosol lubricant/penetrant and scrubbing with a terry cloth rag.
  • To eliminate shower splatter and the problems it causes, use a shower splash guard (405210).
    • For stained tub nonskid strips, a "white-wall" tire cleaner, available from automotive stores can be used.
    • To remove nonskid mats or strips adhesive, use ZEP Citrus (113075).

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  • Vacuum cleaners can damage walls and furniture very easily. To prevent this, a two inch strip of carpet can be attached to the vacuum’s base, or a soft vacuum cover can be used.

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  • For stubborn cigarette stains on tubs and vanities, try soaking them in WD-40, Topol toothpaste, or "Jewelers’ Rouge", (available at jewelry and variety stores).
  • Some stains from hair coloring may come out with gel dishwasher detergent, (let soak). Or try a fine auto rubbing compound.
  • Many vanity tops end up with "teeth" marks from guest using them to open bottles. By installing a bottle opener in a convenient location, the marks may be prevented.
  • For more stubborn burns, WD-40 may be combined with cigarette ash then rubbed briskly after soaking.
  • 0000 steel wool can be used to rub stains and burns from most hard vanities.

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  • To quickly repair peeling wall vinyl, have each housekeeper carry a glue stick to make instant repairs. Be aware the problem can be caused by mold.

  • To prevent stains and damage on the wall above the trash cans, place the can somewhere in the room where the guest can’t play "basketball" with it from the bed.

  • Use old bars of soap on walls to remove scuffs.

  • Crayon/ink on painted walls can be removed with a cloth that has been dipped in paint thinner.

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Good to know info...
58 Super Solutions
Maintenance Warehouse Tips